View Phil Surkis results including current phone number, address, relatives, background check report, and property record with Whitepages. Holland has authored 2 cookbooks, "New Soul Cooking" and "Brown Sugar Kitchen". By Margo True Now there are none. Chef Tanya Holland makes grits in at Brown Sugar Kitchen before it opens in Oakland, Calif., on Sunday, February 2, 2014. No, but B-Side BBQ is pretty darn good. Add coals as needed to maintain medium heat. She moved there the same year I did, 2003, although I didn't know it at the time. Per serving: 233 calories, 3 g protein, 7 g carbohydrate, 23 g fat (3 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 6 mg sodium, 3 g fiber. Who says the Bay Area is short on barbecue? GATHER. It's a move from barbecue to baked goods.Noted Oakland chef Tanya Holland has announced that she is pulling the plug on B-Side BBQ, a venture she and Phil Surkis launched in West Oakland.R Tanya D Holland. (Photo By Liz Hafalia/The San Francisco Chronicle via Getty Images), 3384 x 2400 px (28,65 x 20,32 cm) - 300 dpi - 3 MB. For the Jerk Marinade: Combine all the ingredients; cover and set aside until ready to use. From there, Tanya joined the University of Virginia where she earned a BA in Russian Language and Literature in1987. Chef Tanya Holland of Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif., shares some tasty end-of-summer recipes like Roasted Summer Squash Egg Tart and Vegetarian "Dirty" Rice. Tanya Holland with the cast of The Chew on ABC, from left to right: Clinton Kelly (background), Michael Symon, Mario Batali, Tanya Holland, Daphne Oz, Carla Hall. "It is a boys' club out there, yet there are some wonderful female chefs. Collard-Wrapped Salmon with Creole Mustard Sauce Troll the food-nerd message boards and youll find graduate-level observations on the lack of Belgian food (I dream of tomate crevette with real North Sea shrimp), East LA-style Mexican seafood, and Taiwanese sit-down delis. San Francisco Chronicle/Hearst Newspapers via Getty Images. Acclaimed for her inventive take on modern soul food, as well as comfort classics, Tanya Holland is the Executive Chef/Owner of the internationally renowned and beloved Brown Sugar Kitchen restaurant, in Oakland, California. Add the green beans and toss until evenly coated. Everything depends on making the grits early in the morning and making the rest la minute and then paying close attention. Holland was awarded The Key to the City of Oakland by Oakland Mayor Jean Quan on August 2, 2014. B-Side BBQ is the newest venture from Tanya Holland, West Oakland chef/owner of Brown Sugar Kitchen. Chef Tanya Holland looks for items in storage before opening at Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif., on Sunday, February 2, 2014. Tanya released her debut Tanyas Table Podcast in 2020 produced by MuddHouse Media. She is known as an expert of soul food. 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Philip now resides at 3268 Louise Str, Oakland, CA 94608-4122. "She takes what we all care about here - local, seasonal fresh California cuisine - and gives it a funk and soul twist. Get premium, high resolution news photos at Getty Images She is known as an expert of soul food. Smoked Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe Today, the restaurant attracts an eclectic mix: hipsters, African-American ladies, woodworkers and printmakers on their lunch breaks. I'm so happy she's risen to the top in this incredibly competitive market.". Holland has no barbecue-specific stints on her rsum, and for all her culinary globetrotting, she has never been in smoking distance of Kansas City, Memphis, or the hill country of Texas. An online dating site brought Holland and Surkis together. Holland has served as the president of the prestigious Les Dames dEscoffier San Francisco chapter.. On Food Networks Melting Pot, she was the host and soul food expert. [2] Hollands parents influenced her interest in cooking: her father is from rural Virginia and her mother from Louisiana. . Copyright Weeklys All rights reserved. The food community opened its arms. Remove ribs from the marinade, letting the excess drip off. Roast, tossing occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Loopy cowpoke branding has been burned into the wooden tables. "Phil and I want to thank all of you for your support and love of our little barbecue joint." Rogers hadn't been at the kitchen for awhile but was working out this morning thinking of Holland's homemade pork hash and chicken and waffles. Grab it with a paper towel and pull it toward the other end of the slab to remove it. In 2014, she published another cookbook titled Brown Sugar Kitchen: Recipes and Stories from Everyones Favorite Soul Food Restaurant. . Tanya stands at a height of 5 ft 4 in ( Approx 1.6m). At Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Tanya Hollands Creole shrimp and grits seems to be infused with concentric layers of flavor. She was smitten, and for their next date she cooked him a meal: North African-spiced short ribs, duck confit, Israeli couscous and a berry pie. Serve immediately. Chicken and waffles at Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif. Tanya Holland with Willie Geist, (left) and Al Roker on the TODAY show. If made ahead, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days.). 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Aprovecha la escala global, la informacin basada en datos y la red de ms de 340.000 creadores de Getty Images para crear contenido exclusivamente para tu marca. Apart from being a chef, Tanya is also a lecturer who leads the conversation on inclusion and equity in the hospitality industry. You have entered an incorrect email address! "They cooked world cuisine and regional American food.". For her seder, Holland wanted that same harmony of people and flavors. The "Today" show is talking about another segment with Holland in the spring, and executives from Oprah's OWN network have reached out to Holland to talk about a possible show. "Tanya's turkey was the most beautiful I've ever seen, and it tasted amazing," Waldman says. [3][4] When Holland was eight years old, her parents founded a gourmet cooking and eating club that consisted of six couples from different ethnic and professional backgrounds. By contrast, B-Sides ribs, another vital building block of any barbecue chefs portfolio, were just okay. There was no unpleasant gristle, and my fork cut through the meat like it was flan. They may not be as loud, nor have as many flashy tattoos, but they are educated, experienced and wonderful teachers," says her agent, Kristen Green. show more of Tanya Holland photos or correct name Phil Surkis show more of Phil Surkis photos or correct name. By submitting your email, you agree to our, The freshest news from the local food world, Brown Sugar Kitchen's Phil Surkis on Taj Mahal & TableMath, Sign up for the Like me, Holland quickly realized that she'd have to get in her car just to find a decent cup of coffee. He paired it with sparkling ros and left nothing but bones on his plate. Looking to taste Tanya's Food at Brown Sugar Kitchen? Visit brownsugarkitchen.com! "Tanya's turkey was the most . News Politics Science Education Housing Immigration Criminal Justice Silicon Valley Forum The California Report. Tanya Holland's Thanksgiving menu embraces the classics. John Kernick. With her husband Phil Surkis, Holland repurposed the old Yardie Jerk space on San Pablo Avenue late last year, giving it a cowboy-themed patina well-suited for her mission as a West Oakland trailblazer. Her parents influenced her interest in cooking. Holland is a regular guest chef on NBCs Today Show and CBSs The Talk. Other guests included Holland's husband, Phil Surkis, R&B singer Ledisi and Shiree Dyson, director of programs at San Francisco's Museum of the African Diaspora. She was born to his father Hollis Holland and her mother Annette Holland on July 14, 1965, in Hartford, Connecticut, United States of America. Other guests included Holland's husband, Phil Surkis, R&B singer Ledisi and Shiree Dyson, director of programs at San Francisco's Museum of the African Diaspora. Oakland dignitaries, grateful that she put a "there there," have named a day after her, and this month Ebony magazine came out with its first-ever chef awards, and guess who topped the list - Holland, dubbed California Chef of the Year by the California Travel Association. Place the ribs, meat side up, on the grate, turn off the burner directly under the ribs, and reduce the other burners to medium heat. They have been together ever since, and now Surkis' business card says "waffle hustler/rib wrangler." He keeps all their ventures, and 40 employees, running. Ill certainly be there. Holland was elected co-president of the San Francisco chapter of Les Dames dEscoffier in 2013. Tanya Holland (born July 14, 1965) is an American celebrity chef, restaurateur, podcast host, writer, and cookbook author. View Philip Surkis's record in Emeryville, CA including current phone number, address, relatives, background check report, and property record with Whitepages. While in France, she trained with Michel Sarran at Le Mas Du Langoustier on the island of Porquerolles and with Jean-Michel Bouvier at Restaurant LEssential in Chambry.[7]. He is the DJ of West Oaklands modern soul food joint Brown Sugar Kitchen owned by Tanya. Get premium, high resolution news photos at Getty Images Holland holds a Bachelor of Arts in Russian Language and Literature from the University of Virginia, as well as a Grande Diplme from La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine in Burgundy, France. After 45 minutes, brush the ribs with some of the Pineapple Glaze, and brush them two or three times before serving. Tanya Holland Instagram She took a walk around Lake Merritt and was bowled over by the diversity. Novella Carpenter is the author of Farm City: The Education of an Urban Farmer. She is a woman of average stature. Holland and Surkis are talking about opening a bar in the Barn and increasing the number of seats at B-Side. She is an in-demand public speaker and lecturer who frequently leads the conversation on inclusion and equity in the hospitality industry. The Best Places to Eat Filipino Food in Every State, 28 Cookbooks and Food Books to Add to Your Shelf This Fall, Food & Wine Best New Chefs 2022: Warda Bouguettaya, APT 4B's Dayana Joseph Brings an Afro-Caribbean Vinyl Bar to Atlanta, Nicole A. Taylor's 'Watermelon & Red Birds' Is an Ode to Black Joy, 'Top Chef's' Tanya Holland on That Tense Judges Table, 14 Food Pros Share Their Essential Holiday Dishes, 'Top Chef' Houston: Here Are All the Chefs Competing This Season, Food & Wine Magazine Names Best New Chefs in America 2008. ". Producers were searching for an African American female chef to host a soul food kitchen show for its new series, "Melting Pot." Age 36 (415) 336-0167. Agiliza tu flujo de trabajo con nuestro sistema de gestin de archivos digitales de primera clase. Enter Tanya Holland, well-armed with a smoker, a smile, and a surplus of true grit. Glazing a Thanksgiving turkey with bourbon for Food & Wine. Next door to B-Side is a former auto body shop that Holland and Surkis have turned into an event space called the Barn, where they recently threw a party for the restaurateurs involved in Oakland Restaurant Week. Celebrated chef-owner Tanya Holland and partner Phil Surkis are proud to commemorate the fifth anniversary of West Oakland culinary landmark Brown Sugar Kitchen on Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.'s birthday, January 15, 2013. Tanya Holland on The Better Show with JD Roberto. "I want to be a brand. She is an in-demand public speaker and lecturer who frequently leads the conversation on inclusion and equity in the hospitality industry. Brown Sugar Kitchen: 2534 Mandela Parkway (near 26th Street), Oakland; (510) 839-7685. www.brownsugarkitchen.com. The City of Oakland declared June 5th, 2012 as Tanya Holland Day for her "Significant Role in Creating Community and Establishing Oakland as a Culinary Center". Is Tanya Holland Married She is married to her husband called Phil Surkis. [2] Her father attended Western New England College. (There may be a larger lesson here on ordering tofu at a barbecue restaurant.). Her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen has received a number of Michelin Bib Gourmand awards. Still, shes a dab hand in the kitchen, and a quick study. Holland has contributed recipes or been featured in the following books: On this Wikipedia the language links are at the top of the page across from the article title. In 2020, she released her debut Tanya's Table Podcast produced by MuddHouse Media. "I remember everyone gathering, the civility of it," Holland said. Details. Chabon even had the party there for his latest book, Telegraph Avenue, a big-hearted portrait of intertwining black and white families in Oakland. An ambassador for her city, Tanya Holland is very active in Oakland's oldest neighborhood, prompting Mayor Jean Quan to . To cook ribs using a gas grill: Preheat the grill with all the burners on high. Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to email a link to a friend (Opens in new window), Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window), Bay Area weather: After thunderstorms and hail, snow could be on the way this weekend. This year, she created a spectacular meal that brings together her French training, Creole background and California influences. It consisted of six couples from different ethnic and professional backgrounds who gathered to share experiences and meals ranging from Southern Cuisine, Italian, Pennsylvanian Dutch, Indian, Jewish, Mexican, and French. Husband Phil Surkis (left) and chef Tanya Holland (right) show Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif., on Wednesday, February 29, 2014. The smoked barbecue chicken at B-Side, juicy and lush and expansive with flavor, may not gain this level of cult following, but its a contender. Use Next and Previous buttons to navigate, There she is making a savory bread pudding with Al Roker on the "Today" show. She was the owner of Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, California (2008 to 2022), which received national recognition and multiple Michelin Bib Gourmand awards.[1]. [22] Season Two of Tanyas Tableran from December 2020 through March 2021 and featured special guests Ayesha Curry, Danny Glover, Bonnie Raitt, Phil Rosenthal, Lars Ulrich, Lizz Wright, Ericka Huggins, Jonny Moseley, and others. Get Morning Report and other email newsletters. The author ofThe Brown Sugar Kitchen CookbookandNew Soul Cooking,Hollandcompeted on the 15thseason ofTop Chefon Bravo, was the host and soul food expert on Food NetworksMelting Pot, she appears on the new HBO Max showSelena + Cheffeaturing Selena Gomez, and is the host of Tanyas Kitchen Table on OWN: Oprah Winfrey Network. As he drove her to the Oakland hills to search out homes where her relatives had lived, they decided to get a bite, and she suggested barbecue. newsletter, A Mission District Destination for Yucateco Specialities Has Landed in the Marina, This Upcoming Oakland Bakery Wants to Fill Your Belly With Slices of Cake and Glasses of Champagne, James Beard Award-Winning Baker Angela Pinkerton Is Closing Down Her Popular East Bay Pie Shop, It Only Took Seven Months For Third Culture Bakery to Close Its Valencia Street Location, After 30 Years, an East Bay Outpost of This Legendary Old-School Hot Dog Shop Is Closing. Tanya Holland is an American professional chef, cookbook author, podcast host, and restaurateur, who owns Brown Sugar Kitchen based in Oakland, CA. Or I can go to B-Side BBQ, which Holland opened in 2011. So, too, the beef-and-pork sausage link, a fiery Prather Ranch blend, was tasty but tough. Her first cookbook titled New Soul Cooking was published in 2003 by Stuart, Tabori & Chang. Husband Phil Surkis shares a warm moment with chef Tanya Holland as they have morning coffee at Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif., on Wednesday, February 29, 2014. Since working with Tanya Holland and Phil Surkis on a promotional video for their restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen, we at Radiologie have come to share their vision for West Oakland, to see it transformed and renewed. Place the ribs, meat side up, on the grate above the water-filled pan, cover the grill, and cook until tender, 1 1/2-2 hours. She was born on July 14, 1965, in Hartford, Connecticut, United States of America. Her gumbo is out of this world.". B-Side BBQ: 3303 San Pablo. El diseo de Getty Images es una marca comercial de Getty Images. Recently, though, West Oakland has been showing signs of a revival, in part because Brown Sugar Kitchen draws more than 1,800 customers a week. Ads by BeenVerified. "I would love to have restaurants worldwide. ", West Oakland hadn't always been so down and out. While working as a line cook at Verbena, she supplemented her income as a food styling assistant to Roscoe Betsill[6] whose work has been featured in Metropolitan Home, Vegetarian Times and Food and Wine magazines. They gathered to share experiences and meals that ranged from French, Mexican, Jewish, Indian, Pennsylvanian Dutch, Italian and Southern Cuisine. Old black cowboy movies play silently on a couple of corner screens. all rights reserved | tanya holland | 2017 | site by karenmariechappell.com. Tanya Holland and Phil Surkis attend MEALS ON WHEELS 24th Annual Star Chefs & Vintners Gala on May 15th 2011 in San Francisco, CA. Holland is among a group of women breaking the mold of the male celebrity chef. WT: Seder page PF: O1 ZO: AZ 90. Tanya appears on the HBO Max show called Selena + Chef starring Selena Gomez ( Tanya appears in episode 8). [10] After 10 years in West Oakland, Brown Sugar Kitchen relocated to Downtown Oakland in 2019, before closing in 2022 during the COVID-19 pandemic. She opened Brown Sugar Kitchen in 2008 with modernized Southern classics: fried free-range chicken with waffles, shrimp and grits with organic cheddar cheeseand good coffee. newsletter, Another Week, Another Round of Layoffs in the Bay Area Food Scene, Plus, chef David Nayfeld launches a "Che Fico Scholarship," and more Bay Area food intel, Here Are the Hottest New Restaurants in the East Bay, March 2023, The most exciting new restaurants in Oakland, Berkeley, and beyond, Sign up for the [8], In 2002, she returned to the front of the house as Creative Director at Le Thtre in Berkeley, California. Note that the ribs must marinate at least 6 hours before cooking. Noted Oakland chef Tanya Holland has announced that she is pulling the plug on B-Side BBQ, a venture she and Phil Surkis launched in West Oakland. Holland is an alumna of Bravo TV's Top Chef, where she competed on the 15th season. Visit www.brownsugarkitchen.com! The chef is so devoted to the holiday that when she was a homesick 26-year-old student at France's prestigious La Varenne cooking school, she invited her classmates to a Thanksgiving dinner. Her teammate called Claudette Zepeda-Wilkins made some claims regarding Tanya. Sign up with your email address to stay in touch! She is an in-demand public speaker and lecturer who frequently leads the conversation on inclusion and equity in the hospitality industry. Together, Phil and Tanya have single-handedly brought new life to an economically downtrodden area of Oakland. Phil and I want to thank all of you for your support and love of our little barbecue joint., This spring, the space at 3303 San Pablo Ave. will become the B-Side Baking Co., in partnership with Hollands baker at Brown Sugar Kitchen, Celeste Scott. Visit brownsugarkitchen.com! Tanya Holland is an African-American professional chef, cookbook author, and owner of Brown Sugar Kitchen and B-Side BBQ in Oakland, California. For the Pineapple Glaze: Combine the pineapple juice and brown sugar in a small saucepan, bring to a boil over medium heat, reduce heat and cook until thick and reduced by about one-third, about 15 minutes. The sweet-meets-heat pulled-pork sandwich on a griddled bun was generous with the meat and slaw I overheard a precocious preteen saying, I need two mouths for my sandwich! if a little dry. E-mail: mmay@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @meredithmaysf . Skip to Nav; Skip to Main; Skip to Footer; Created with Sketch. Creole Dirty Rice Holland returned to Mesa Grill in 1994 to work as a line cook. With her husband Phil Surkis, Holland repurposed the old Yardie Jerk space on San Pablo Avenue late last . Ever since Holland mimicked her mother's movements on a play stove in the family kitchen, she's been determined to become a culinary celebrity. This address also has Kimberly L Foreman and Tanya D Holland connected to it. Holland has been honored with her own "day" by the city of Oakland, recognizing her role in developing the area as a culinary mecca. She hosted the Food Network TV show Melting Pot Soul Kitchen from 2000-2003 (currently airing on The Cooking Channel). Tanyas dad attended Western New England College. We had a good run lasting over three years, she wrote on the restaurants website. The classic combination was allegedly created for jazz musicians who got off work so late, they couldn't decide between breakfast and dinner. THE WELCOME TABLE Chef Tanya Holland hosts a soulful seder. Customers start to line up outside of Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif., before opening for breakfast on Sunday, February 2, 2014. If made ahead, refrigerate in an airtight container up to 1 month. What happened? Overall, B-Side BBQ wasnt one of those rare, transformative smoked meat experiences Ive had at Double D BBQ in Grand Lake or Hill Country in Manhattan. Her first book, New Soul Cooking, was published by Stuart, Tabori & Chang in 2003. Then there's the dream of a third restaurant - a North African-inspired French brasserie along the lines of Balthazar in New York, open around the clock and incorporating some of her greatest hits such as chicken and waffles and smoked brisket. The cornbread was outstanding moist and spongy with a pat of honey butter cascading over the edges. Holland leads a critically-acclaimed podcast Tanyas Table produced by MuddHouse Media, interviewing many celebrity guests in Season One such asQuestlove, Samin Nosrat, Alice Waters, Danny Meyer, Jesse Tyler Ferguson, Bassem Youssef, and Carla Hall. Still, she pulled it off. Search More About This Property. "The vision I have for myself is being a leader in this industry, an expert on the type of cuisine I do," she says. Chef Tanya Holland makes grits at Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif., before opening on Sunday, February 2, 2014. "This was before social media.". This is a carousel. Her lessons in diversity are evident even at the 27-seat B-Side BBQ, which carries the standards like baby back ribs and corn bread, but also barbecue-braised tofu nuggets, seasonal collard greens and smoked mashed yams. Like Brown Sugar, B-Side BBQ fills a specific culinary dearth, in a neighborhood that has had very few dining options at all. Meredith May is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. [6] Holland attended La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine, a school founded by Anne Willan in Burgundy, France, where she received a Grand Diploma in 1992. "Once I landed, the food scene was smaller, and there was more a history of women chefs here. She takes the same polymath approach to her smoked meats at B-Side, and the results are largely positive. Her second cookbook titled Brown Sugar Kitchen: New Style Down-Home Recipes from Sweet West Oakland was released by Chronicle Books in 2014 with a foreword by Michael Chabon. Time magazine's November cover story, "The 13 Gods of Food," featured not one female chef, sparking a national discussion about why women aren't promoted in professional kitchens as quickly as their male counterparts. Lightly oil the grill grates. We re beyond thrilled to have Celeste create her irresistible sweet and savory magicin that space.. The couple have single-handedly brought new life to an economically downtrodden area of Oakland. Will it keep haters from bemoaning the lack of decent local brisket and ribs? [23] Having been appointed as a Culinary Diplomat by the United States' Foreign Service Department for tours in Kazakhstan and Mexico, Holland also has taught classes in France for gastronomic travelers. She is getting unsolicited calls from cooking shows and some exploratory interest from the networks about starting her own show, Green says. Later, Tanya went on to work as a catering office manager and also as an assistant sommelier for a wine importer. "James Beard's awards chair, Tanya Holland, once had three Bay Area restaurants. But Holland's career appears to be on the fast track. Holland was born in Hartford, Connecticut where her father, Hollis Holland, attended Western New England College. She went on to work as a catering office manager, a tasting assistant for a wine importer, and a server at Mesa Grill before she committed to a career in the kitchen. Holland was named "2013 Restaurateur/Chef of the Year" by the California Travel Association during the California Travel Summit in March 2013 in San Diego. Customers feel so passionate about the dish that they regularly pay tribute with love letters left on their tables. This recipe is from Tanya Holland's upcoming cookbook, "Brown Sugar Kitchen: Recipes and Stories from Everyone's Favorite Soul Food Restaurant" (Chronicle Books; September 2014). Roasted Beet Soup Recipe A Belle Epoque for African-American Cooking. Soulful Cornmeal Crepes with Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread Recipe In 2003, Tanya published a her cookbook titled New Soul Cooking: Updating a Cuisine Rich in Flavor and Tradition. But she couldn't find an upscale soul food restaurant that reflected the new culture. Chef Tanya Holland plates breakfast orders at Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland, Calif., on Sunday, February 2, 2014. Oakland chef Tanya Holland ready for the big stage. People were more open to me.". During the World Wars, the area was a port-and-train hub, a boom town with a jazz scene, plenty of bars and restaurants and a diverse population of upwardly mobile African-American, Irish, Polish, Scandinavian, Chinese and Mexican families. Hollands parents (Hollis and Annette Holland) influenced her interest in cooking: her father is from rural Virginia and her mother from Louisiana. Brown Sugar Kitchen chef Tanya Holland works out at King's Boxing Gym in Oakland. Sauteed Green Beans Recipe Tanya Holland ready for big stage 2014-03-09 - Meredith May is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Her pace is warp speed, and for as much as she takes on, she's always thinking about the next thing. Season with salt. I want to be that mentor that I never had," Holland says. After the TV show ended, California started to seem much more appealing than jumping back into the competitive New York restaurant world. At Brown Sugar Kitchen, the restaurant that inspired other chefs to take a chance on the neighborhood, I'm warmly greeted by a hostess who lives nearby. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Holland has been slowly increasing the hours, bumping closing time from 4 to 6, and she hopes to be open at night by summer. In its glory days, it was similar to the Rochester, New York, of Holland's childhood.